I’ve got the clutch master, clutch slave and hardlines in the engine compartment installed. As many SM builds do, I replaced the stock rubber hose and “curley Q” line at the slave with a braided flex line. Easy stuff. The hardline I’m just knocking the grunge off with some Scotch Brite maroon then chasing the threads to make share they are OK and making sure the flares on the tubing are still in pretty good shape.
I used a brand new clutch master cylinder from Advanced Autosports, my favorite SM store. The brake booster is mock fitted while I clean and service a fairly new brake master cylinder and test the brake proportioning valve. All easy stuff, just bolts right in.
Here’s the top view with another view of the water temp sensor fitting from Advanced Autosports. I’m not quite pleased with the routing of the cooling hose and may use formed 90* ELs to make it a cleaner fit. Notice no clamps yet, also a mock but I’m not digging the look and more importantly, the bend radius. Nope, I’m not hooking up the defroster as default though I’ll fab some hose fittings for those few times out here where we need to use the defroster. Or use soap or Rain-Ex.
I did a quick refurb of the hardline clip that normally attaches the stock rubber hose to the engine compartment hardline. The flex line is the only line now running to the clutch slave. I got the clutch line while checking out 5X Racing. I was going to buy some Team Dynamics wheels as they have a good price but as with all new vendors I use, I try a smaller purchase to see how it goes. They were great, would certainly use them again but things took a turn for the worse with health and finances so I’ve held off on the wheels and tires for now. Since, I’ve changed my mind and will go with D-Force SM wheels.
The clutch slave was replaced as well. I also got the clutch slave at Advanced Autosports. When I got the flex line I was going to use kits from NAPA on the master cylinders but they were so rusted it wasn’t worth refurbing. It was a couple months after I got the line and since AA had announced they were stocking Daiken masters and slaves. Easy call. And the price was just a shade more than the NAPA rebuild kits (and my cores were trash) and less full parts than either NAPA or Autozone, my two local providers. And no core charge. The NAPA in town is actually a commercial franchise, Cheyenne Auto Parts, a well stocked parts house with surly old parts guys that know their shit. Looking through some of the Internet feedback not everyone appreciates the gruff but lovable nature of some of the guys. I love ‘em. They hook me up every time.
That’s the clutch system, sans pedal which is in the next round of media blasting sometime soon. Got a fair amount of bits to blast this time around. Then the bleed which I’ll save for last with brakes and other fluids. I’m also taking the time to show some love to the rest of the hardline assembly. Remember kids, tub up. That’s how I rolled on this one. Or how it rolled on me, don’t know yet.
The buy of the week has to be a nearly new Snap On TDM-117A metric tap and die. With an 1/8″ BSP tap and die no less. Nearly new and crazy cheap on eBay. I’d been using the low end HF sets, metric and SAE and when it comes time I need to upgrade the SAE, I’ll look to eBay once more for the SAE version of the same set. For 10 bucks I managed to get a 9/16″ 1/2″ drive 8 point, or “double square” as it’s called for the trans fill plug.
All in all, a good week in and under the chick car. My weekend starts in a couple of hours and hope to have most of what I have for the engine compartment at least mocked and detailed and some if not all the front suspension hung.