From yesterday around noon, not the hottest part fo the day, In the shop, with a porta cool and two exhaust fans going. It’s been getting over 110* most days recently.
Archive for the ‘Shop Build’ Category
And I also need to fabricate a way to attach an electric cable drum to the trailer…
Part of the fall season will be taken up with getting various vehicles to and from the shop. These aren’t necessarily race vehicles. First up is Dad’s 67 Mustang. We need to spend a few days and get it back into shape. It’s pretty good, all the parts match. Nice collector piece. Before he got sick this last time there wasn’t time to winterize the car. Drain fluids, stabilize fuel, that sort of thing. The first project will be going to the middle of nowhere (where he and his wife have retired) and bringing the ca back down here. About a 10 hour round trip. Originally we were going to do it all up at his place but I’m better equipped particularly when it comes to dropping the fuel tank, cleaning the entire fuel systems, rebuilding/cleaning the carb and sealing the tank just in case. Plus they like Vegas and it gives us a good chance to hang out.
To move these vehicles, some of them that don’t run, I need to install the 12000# capacity Badland winch I got at the beginning of the year. This was inspired from my circle track days when I would either use a come along and strap or have two track wreckers lift the car onto the trailer. The ramps that came with the trailer were rusted, 1/4″ angle iron and weighed just over 100#s each. I scrapped them with the #60 earlier this year. I’ll build a set of aluminum ramps, 8′, mild slope using 1/8″ angle aluminum for a gross capacity of 7500#s. They’ll weigh just over 30#s ea and store under the trailer. Also down the road I’ll add a tire rack and enclosed fairing and lockable tool and supply storage on the front of the trailer. I’ve got some workups of a dovetail mod to the 18′ Carson car trailer. And some new paint, tires and brake work. But first, I need the winch holder fabricated and installed.
I used 3/16″ plate as the winch base. This will be welded to the slide mount I got at Harbor Freight. That will then slide into the mating receiver, again from HF that will mount to the front crossmember and tongue of the trailer. The trick is to shift the weigh back enough not to compromise the tongue weight. The winch will be powered from the 50 amp aux circuit on my tow package.
Basic positioning and fitment.
Welding. MIG, .035 E70S-6, 170 amps, 330 ipm, C25 gas. The slide mount is 1/4″ thick wall. It’s a bit past the capacity of this machine with gas metal arc welding in a single pass. The plate is 3/16″ which is right at the top of this machine using gas and solid core. It’s a great little machine though. Works great on most of what I do, which is 1/8″ and under. Still wouldn’t mind having something a bit larger. It’s two passes along the long axis. A root pass then a finish pass. Somewhat ugly but you can see penetration in the tubing. Should have considered stick welding this one but it worked well. Didn’t chase the heat well enough so there is a fair amount of warpage.
Here’s the assembly view of how it will go together.
A look at the mocked up piece. I still need to source a small bit, 60″ or so of 2″x4″x.120 steel tubing for mounting the receiver to the trailer. I can get a stick for 75 bucks but I only need 5′, not a 2-’ stick. I’ll see what they have in the scrap pile at Curtis.
A Wilton drill press vise. All for 29 bucks. CPO WIlton says it’s made in the good ol’ USofA but on the box it says “hencho in China”. But to Wilton specs. Hmmm, OK. The HF drill press vise is 17 bucks but compared to my 2001 HF vise this one is sturdier. My HF vise lasted more than 10 years though I should have replaced it a year or two ago. I think I paid about 10 bucks for it. Anyway, I needed one and I’ve had a 5″ Wilton mechanics vise for 5 years and at the day gig we use Wilton Tradesman or Columbian vises so I’m familiar with the quality. I could use at least a 6″ Tradesman for the welding table so I can whack the shit out of anything I need. Can’t do that with the mechanics vise.
I even bolted the vise to the table this time instead of C clamping it.
Most of the lower cost “Hossfeld” style, or more precisely, rotary compression or rotary draw type tubing benders use a silk screen protractor and a piece of TIG wire to read the bend angle. This is then checked against a large bend protractors, mechanical or digital.
Larger, more expensive automated benders have digital read outs, accurate to about a 10th of a percent. The lower cost benders did have a third party option but late last year the company stopped producing them due partly to demand and they were a few hundred dollars. When you bend professionally, you are like to be using a larger commercial bender and not something like a hand operated rotary compression unit.
Looked like we were SOL in the digital bending gauge market. That is, until Troy at SWAG Off Road in Oregon City, OR came up with yet another great idea. A digital bender kit made by modifying an HF digital angle finder. It’s called the SWAG U-Turn Tube Bender Digital Readout.
Very cool and very affordable. I’ll put one together before I start back on the Miata cage. Also, check out some of the other handy little fab tools Troy offers.
Never can have too many drift pin punches. I suppose you can, but I don’t have enough. Nothing pisses me off more than dusting a good $15 screw driver when you don’t have a drift. OK, plenty else pisses me off but you get the drift. (get it?….)
It was under 30 bucks for a Snap On 1250, some call it a “lady foot”, don’t know why. That’s 44 bucks off the truck but if your truck guy does cash deals, it’s a shade under 40. Still…. The second item was a PPC714A, 14″ center punch that had been blunted to use as a drift. Excellent. About 55 from the truck, 48 or so if your guy will play ball. Another successful eBay run. After my Craftsman (these were Taiwan) pin punch split, I’m still looking for a good deal on a used PPC710BK set, though Williams (is a Snap On brand) has a few similar sets for a lot less. I’ve bid on several, my limit is 75 used (can get off truck for about 180 new, list 201) and they seem to have a used street value of about a hun. If I whack a punch with a 24oz ball peen, I don’t want it coming apart even though I’m wearing good eye PPE.
A few nights ago Honey swore some kids kicked the side of the house. I told her it was the wind. When I went into the shop I found this…
A weld failed on a big box chain shelving unit. I had about 144 Racedeck tiles and the edges and more importantly, three different sets of JD2 bender tooling. The tooling alone is aroudn a grand and not light.
It landed on this….
A Sirius/XM boombox, pretty much killed it. A cheap Best Buy 19″ TV but we’d taken the sat out of the garage. I can’t hear it when I’m working and it wasn’t worth it. Works but scratched and a 2004 Apple G4 aluminum Powerbook that’s become the garage computer. Survived like a champ. All supported but the Kenmore upright freezer.
I’ve always loved a good powder coat finish. It’s ju8st too expensive for my one off projects unless I time it right and they are set up at the coaters. Otherwise the setup charge is a killer.
About a month or so ago I found GordsGarageBlog. Great DIY fabricator. He just started powder coating himself. It’s a Hyper Smooth 02, though there are others like the Kool Koat. No room or bucks for that tool yet but it’s on the list. I do have some room for a couple of small goodies if I can find them at the right price. Not tellin’ what they are but I can use them right away to replace some less than stable HF tools I have.
Next post or two should be the fab and fit portion of the roll cart for the KRA box. After that, back to the Miata by striping and finishing the rest of the under tray, package tray, truck and rear sub frame stud replacement. Took a couple steps back in my treatments in the last 10 days or so so that’s set me back.
Last month, actually. I got these for welding class (semester is just come to a close) to help light the booth. With a 20% off coupon, on sale I got them for about 7 bucks each. It’s a 13 watt, fluorescent drop light. http://www.harborfreight.com/fluorescent-work-light-92079.html
De Klagging tools
Takes a bit to fully prep a car for paint. Looking to save weight on your SM (or any other street production based race car)? Pay attention to the paint prep details.
Grinders: Dewalt D28112 Time saver tip, if you can afford it have one for each type of media. I have one with w flap disc, one with a grinding disc, one with a synthetic material removal disc, one with a wire wheel and one with a cut off wheel. You can usually find name brand angle grinders in two packs in the big box home improvement stores around the holidays or get refurbs for a decent price. Notice the handles on the grinders. This isn’t a one handled job unless you like cuts, pain and stitches.
Die Grinder: The HF die grinder isn’t bad, particularly for the price but will wear after hard use. Ingersoll Rand makes a good one and the TP Tools import isn’t bad, but I think the ass slapping daddy of die grinders is the Snap On PT100A With a variable speed switch and a 1/3 HP, 25k RPM motor this tool rocks. Price is not for the faint of heart but on eBay there are some deals on used, though mostly the older series. Still a good buy though.
Media: Just to do the engine bay and trans tunnel back past the shifter required a Weiler 5″ wire wheel, Weiler 1/4″ small shank wire cup, 120 grit zirconia flap disc, a few 2″ Ro-loc brand quick change abrasives, a few sheets of Scotch Brite maroon, some clean and strip discs, great for undercoating, some acetone and tack and shop rags.
It will be shot, hopefully today if my health cooperates, with TCP Global ermine white single stage acrylic enamel. I’l use that for the interiors, enigne bay, trunk well, etc. At the moment I’m still leaning toward keeping it in stock classic Miata red, code SU though I’m liking Mariner Blue, code DU as well.